SALTWATER - INSHORE

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1. Wind thread from the 95% position to the bend of the hook whip finish at the bend and trim the thread.
2. Take a lead split shot and using a knife blade open up the split.
3. Put a drop of PVA or Tarzans Grip glue in the split of the shot or on the hook shank and crimp firmly a lead shot on the shank of the hook so that the rear edge lines up with the hook point.

4. Paint the lead shot with 5 minute epoxy. If you want to emulate the colour of prawn eggs you can tint the epoxy.
5. Rotate the fly until the epoxy goes off.

1. Put the fly in the vice and re attach the thread behind the lead shot.
2. Prepare a set of burnt monofilament eyes that are about equal in length to twice the gape of the hook.
3. Cut the eyes in the middle so that you have one eye on each of two equal stems.
4. Tie the two eyes in on top of the hook shank in front of the lead shot.

C)

1. Tie in a small bunch of Pearl Flash on top of the eyes and extending behind the hook as the sieves and mouth parts.
2. Whip finish and cut the thread.
3. Rotate the hook point up, re-attach the thread in front of the lead shot and form a dubbing loop and take the main thread to the 90% position.

D)

1. Load the dubbing loop with a small amount of SLF and after twisting the mono loop and SLF into a dubbing thread rope wind the rope in touching turns to the 90% position.
2. Trim the excess dubbing loop.
3. use a piece of male Velcro to pick out the loose ends of the SLF and stroke them down to represent legs.

HACKLE LEGS VERSION

E)

1. Tie in a a length of copper wire behind the lead shot.
2. Take the thread to the 90% position and tie in a hackle by the tip. The hackle fibres should be around one and a half times the gape of the hook.

F)

1. Palmer the hackle forward to the lead shot.
2. Whilst holding the hackle in place at the lead shot with your left hand pick up the copper wire with your right hand and wind the copper wire forward to the eye of the hook taking three or four wraps of the wire that are equally separated from each other.
3. Break the copper wire off and trim the excess hackle with a blade.
4. Stroke all the hackles forward and down into a leg position.
   

G)

1. Take a substantial bunch of  Super Hair and tie the body above the lead shot by securing it just behind the eye of the hook. It's important that you don't under-dress this fly.
2. Mix a small quantity of 5 minute epoxy.
3. Lift the body material up and smear just a small amount over the tie in of the sieves and eyes.

1. Take the fly out of the vice and pull the back tightly into position. Hold the fly firmly just in front of the eyes with the eyes above your fingers and apply a small amount along the top of the back between the lead shot and the eye of the hook. I don't rotate this fly so its important that you only apply as much epoxy as is needed because if you apply too much it will drip forming an uneven back.
2. Hold the back in position with your left hand for the full 5 minutes whilst the epoxy goes off. If you can make a cup of coffee with just your right hand its just about enough time to do that.

H)

When the fly is finished trim the tail off square just in front of the eye of the hook and trim body of the fly so that the finished fly is about twice as long as the hook and so that the body has a tapered front. I generally like to trim the sieves and mouth parts a little shorter than the rest of the fly