A)
- Wind the thread in touching turns from the 95%
position to the bend of the hook.
- Tie in a bunch of Pearl Flash, Krystal Flash or
equivalent at the bend of the hook with tips extending forward and
backward about the same distance.
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B)
Take the tips of the Pearl flash or equivalent
material that extend toward the rear over the top of the tips that
face forward and tie then off so as to double up the amount of sieves
and mouth parts facing forward.
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C)
- Tie a rattle chamber along the hook shank as far
forward as possible.
- Mix a small amount of 5 minute epoxy and put a smear
along the join of the hook shank and the rattle chamber.
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D)
Tie a hackle in in front of the rattle chamber. A
woolly bugger shaped hackle is ideal for this fly. |

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E)
- Take three wraps of the hackle where the hackle is
tied in and then palmer it along the rattle chamber forming 3 or four
segments.
- Tie the hackle off behind the rattle chamber and trim
the excess hackle.
- Trim the hackle off flat with the top of the rattle
chamber. It is important to Palmer the hackle neatly to form uniform
body segments and to trim the hackle evenly because the Palmered hackle
segments show through the epoxy giving the appearance of segments on
the fly.
- Take the thread to the eye od the hook.
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F)
- Select a bunch of superhair about twice as thick as a
match stick.
- Tie the bunch of superhair in tightly at the eye of
the hook.
- Lift the but of the superhair up and whip finish at
the eye of the hook and trim the thread.
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G)
- Mix up an amount of 5 minute epoxy that would
be equal in volume to say a pea.
- Pull the super hair forward and down so that it
spreads evenly around the rattle chamber and so that the
bottom fibres are level with the shank of the hook.
- Using a tooth pick (or your weapon of
choice) apply the epoxy to the super hair between the
bend of the hook and the eye of the hook.
- Place a set of plastic bead chain eyes above the bend
of the hook and put just one drop of epoxy on them to lock teem into
position.
- The hardest part in tying this fly is holding
the superhair in this position whilst the
epoxy goes off.

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H)
- If required as the first coat of epoxy is just going
off you can wet your finger tips and push the gelatinous
epoxy into its final setting position.
- When the first coat has gone off mix a second smaller
amount of epoxy and apply that to the body of the fly
this time paying particular attention to putting more over
the chord joining the two eyes and just in front of the eyes and making
sure you put a drop of epoxy on the whip finishing of the thread.
- Rotate the fly until the epoxy goes off.
- When the epoxy is dry whilst holding a couple
of the top superhair fliers out of place trim the mouth parts and the
balance of the superhair upward at an angle. The couple of longer
superhair fibres that you held out of the way represent the feelers of
the prawn.
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