NYMPHS & WETS

---

FACET HEAD UV BOMB

At times you will need heavy flies to get down to where fish are holding. When tied with tungsten wire as apposed to lead wire this fly is the heaviest of the nymphs that I carry in my bead head fly box. Unlike  many "bombs" this fly as well as getting down quickly has a great buggy appearance and a number of trigger points. The trigger points are the UV tail and the fuzzelled body and the faceted bead head. Each of these trigger points contribute to early recognition of the fly as a "morsel of interest".  If the water is clear any of the colour / trigger combinations work well but if the water is discoloured or dirty its hard to go past one of the black combinations.

Colour combinations are pretty well unlimited but I like black hares ear and brown as basic body colours and chartreuse, pink red, orange and, on black flies only, purple as tag colours.

MATERIALS:

A) Slide a bead over the point of the hook small opening first and position it behind the eye of the hook. If the slotted bead is upside down the slot will be visible on top of the finished fly so rotate the bead so that there is the same amount of slot above and below the hook shank as in this picture.
B) Wind the thread in touching turns half way along the hook shank. tie a length of lead or tungsten wire in along the top of the front half of the hook shank with the tip gently nuzzeled into the top half of the slot. Take the thread back to the 1/2 way position.
C) Wind the lead or tungsten wire forward (10 turns is about right) to the bead head and then five turns back before breading of the excess wire. Wind the thread back to the bend of the hook and then back to the 1/2 way position. Tie the ribbing wire in directly behind the lead or tungsten wire underbody and along the top of the hook shank. Tie in a small tag of UV dubbing. Take the thread back to the 1/2 way position and load it with a small amount of seals fur dubbing.
D) Dub on a thin body all the way to the bead head just covering the lead or tungsten weight. I like to start my dubbing at the 1/2 way position as it allows me to fill up the ledge behind the weight as I wind the dubbing back to the bend of the hook where I take one wrap behind the wire before moving the dubbed thread forward to the bead head.
E) Wind the wire forward along the body of the fly forming 5 or 6 segments. Take one extra wrap of wire directly behind the bead and worry off the excess wire.     After worrying off the ribbing wire I generally dub on thin collar of black seals fur just to hide the extra wrap of copper wire and to fill any gap between the body of the fly and the brad. Do a couple of quadruple hitches of thread behind the bead head forming a thread collar and then trim the thread. Paint the bead head and the collar with head cement. I generally fuzzel up my fly with piece of Velcro because I like hairy flies. If the fly is too hairy for you pinch out any fibres you think are unnecessary.