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NYMPHS & WETS

CHATTO'S NYMPH

If your only going to carry one nymph pattern this is the one. Whilst this nymph is not tied to represent the nymphal (sub imago or pupa) stage of any specific insect it is a good “buggy” looking fly and readily accepted by trout. Tie it in black, brown, dark olive as well as "Red Tag" and  “Adams” or  “Hare & Copper” colours and carry a larger (size #10) and smaller (size #14) version of each.




    AS SEEN FROM ABOVE    

MATERIALS:

Hook - Size 10  & 14 long shank
Thread  - To suit body
Tail  - Squirrel tail, feather fibres or substitute
Rib   Fine copper wire
Weight  - Lead wire if required
Body & thorax  - Mohair or dubbing
Gills - Filoplume or marabou
Legs  - Hackle or feather fibres

Wing casing  - Rubber shrimp back

A)
  1. Wind the thread in touching turns to the bend of the hook.
  2. Tie in a tail equal 1/2 to 2/3 the length of the hook shank. Resist the temptation to make the tail too bulky and too long.                                                   
 

 



    3.  Tie in a length of copper wire.
B)
  1. If you going to add weight to the fly now is the time to do it. One of the easiest ways is to use lead wire. Wind the lead wire around the hook shank placing it as far forward as possible. This will enhance the swimming action of the fly.
  2. Wind the thread forward and then back over the lead to secure it in position. You can also add a drop of head varnish if you like.
  3. There are of course other ways of adding weight to a fly.


C)
  1. Dub on a body starting at almost nothing and gradually increasing in width along the back half of the fly.
  2. Wind the copper wire along the body of the fly forming 5 or 6 segments.
  3. Tie the copper wire off at the half way point and trim the excess copper wire.
  4. Take a small section of filoplume of a complementary colour and tie a little tuft in on each side of the fly to represent the gills. (Filoplume are sometimes called "aftershaft" and are the fluffy feather barbules that look like marabou and are found at the base of many feathers). The tips of the gills should extend out toward the back of the fly at an angle of around 45 degrees and be about half as long as the body of the fly.
  5. Tie in the back material directly in front of the body and the gills.




 

D)

  1. Hold the back material and the gills out of the way and dub on the rear half of the thorax making it about 50% thicker than the thickest part of the body.
  2. Select a small section of hackle fibres and tie them in on each side of the fly to represent the legs. The tips of the legs should extend out toward the back of the fly at an angle of around 45 degrees and be about half as long as the body.  When you look at the fly from above the gills and the legs should all be the same size as each other..


E)
  1. Now apply some dubbing in front of  the legs to complete the bulk of the thorax. Take a little of the dubbing over the area where the legs are tied in so as to hold them a little flatter along the side of the fly. Remember that the finished thorax should be 50% thicker than the thick part of the body.
  2. Pull the back material over the top of the fly and whilst holding it tight and in place tie it off just behind the eye of the hook.
  3. Trim the excess back material whip finish and varnish the thread.
Questions or problems regarding this web site should be directed to:   stephen@fishonfly.com.au
Copyright © 2005 Stephen Chatterton / Fish on Fly P/L - All rights reserved.
Last modified:08-Jun-2008.

 

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